2011 Fall/Winter
Ruffian
The tuxedo, believe it or not, used to be considered semiformal attire—something men wore to dinner at home or at their club. A lot has changed in the 100-plus years since Edward VII popularized the tail-less jacket. Yves Saint Laurent famously put a woman in a tux—he called it Le Smoking—way back in 1966. Ruffian's Tuxedo Park collection inevitably brought YSL to mind. It's hard to measure up to a master like that, but the show found designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais playing to one of their strengths: tweaking menswear codes for the ladies. Their version of the smoking came as a cropped black patent jacket, with an ivory silk charmeuse blouse tucked into a high-waisted satin toreador pant. Elongated blazers in a chevron texture that could double as dresses looked sharp, as did the oversize Prince of Wales check on a trim skirtsuit. And the way the designers turned a bib-front shirt into a panne velvet shirtdress was clever.
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