2011 Fall/Winter
Doo.Ri
Doo-Ri Chung is not a flashy designer. Her calling card is draping, at which she excels, and even when she's playing around with other techniques, her collections are craft-focused exercises in turning luxurious fabrics into understated, accessible clothes. For Fall, Chung was still within her comfort zone—from the first look, a simple floor-skimming turtleneck dress, draping was the big story—but, in a nice change of pace, she was operating with a little more abandon.
Chung's use of texture was especially keen this time out: fluid silk jersey draped off cool, geometric panels of leather; nicely judged applications of fur; barely there mohair knit tops and a mohair-lace detail she could have emphasized more. In general, the outerwear was outstanding, in particular a cozy coat of gray felted wool with an oversize collar, and a fuzzy navy wool jacket draped in back. There was nothing earth-shattering about these pieces, but they had a real sense of drama. And a surprise delight was the series of evening dresses Chung sent out at the end—cut bare, draped, and detailed with sexy fretworks of macramé. The gowns were Oscar-worthy, if there are any actresses out there with Chung's steely nerve to be simple.
by.Maya Singer
style.com
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