2011 Fall/Winter
Peter Som
This season, Peter Som asked his shoe collaborator Charlotte Dellal to do kitten heels in place of their usual über-platforms—an early indication of the designer's practical mind state. "I wanted clothes my friends wanted to wear," said Som, before adding the oft-repeated phrase, "Real clothes for real women."
Som juiced up his reality show with inspiration from Cindy Sherman's early Untitled Film Stills, and the pure, bold approach to color of the Memphis group. The invocation of Sherman dovetailed with Som's own love of retro femininity, which was seen here in cuffed cigarette pants—cute in sequins and metallic jacquard—and nipped-in shifts. The latter fared better than Som's experiments with caped backs and cartridge pleats, which just felt heavy. As for what a friend might covet most here, put your money on an ultrasimple but infallibly elegant crew-neck gown with sleeves to the elbow, like one in a black floral and another in cobalt sequins that closed the show. She'd surely be accepting compliments all night.
- Meenal Mistry
style.com
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