2011 Fall/Winter
Mark Fast
It's probable that many of Mark Fast's peers have envied him in recent years: Right out of the gate, he established the kind of instantly identifiable aesthetic signature that most designers take years, if not entire careers, to build. If you saw a corset-tight engineered knit dress laced with cleverly placed holes, you knew right away it was Mark Fast. Perhaps inevitably, though, he's had trouble proving he's not a one-trick pony; the collection he showed tonight was obviously intended as a riposte to that complaint. There was lots of leather, a new material for Fast, and more intriguingly, he played fresh technical games with his knits, developing ways of building them three-dimensionally.
The first few looks were promising—a wrap coat with massive shoulders that looked a bit like shrubbery; a high-waisted miniskirt, trademark-tight, in a dense wool rib, with a matching crop top featuring more of that shrubbery. Later in the show, Fast sent out a variety of typically skin-baring dresses with a cool accordion pleat built into the knit, and he used the same technique in a big, drapey cardigan. There was a great stretched wool that looked like Mongolian fur, too, used in a dramatic coat. It was nice to see Fast finding ways to accommodate his innovative knitting to covered-up looks, as well as racy ones.
by.Maya Singer
style.com
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