2011 Fall/Winter
Comme des Garcons
"Hybrid fashion" was Rei's typically cryptic backstage directive, and you were irresistibly drawn to the circus staple, the half-man, half-woman. Stand the model this way and you had schoolboy jacket and pants; stand her that and you got a silk blouse with a sheer front and a pert nipple to dispose of any gender ambiguity. The half-and-half idea was also offered as a back-and-front proposition: front view, a python trench; back view, frilled shorts. Or back view, a redingote; front view, those frilled shorts with a sheer top.
There was also a whole passage of dresses ruched and draped from vintage silk scarves that Kawakubo herself has collected over the years. That in itself was the kind of personal revelation that is virtually impossible to decipher in a Comme collection, but, following on from the men's show, it hinted at a more immediate engagement on the designer's part. A series of silk dresses ruched with black ruffles suggested garters and vestigial luxury, the same make-do, end-of-the-civilized-world spirit that made her men's show such a standout.
by.Tim Blanks
style.com
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