Maison Martin Margiela
PARIS, October 1, 2010
"Men's wardrobe meets the woman's body," read the program notes at Maison Martin Margiela. So far, so straightforward. Which designer in Paris, including Nicolas Ghesquière at Balenciaga yesterday, hasn't explored the masculine side of womenswear at one time or another? And wasn't it Margiela himself, before he left the premises earlier this decade, who triggered the front row's abiding interest in a strong-shouldered jacket?
The show's first look was simple enough at first glance: a crisp blue men's shirt with extra fabric on either side of the sleeves ironed flat. But then, as the model inched her way past, the shirt's radically squared-off back came into view, producing a sort of sandwich-board effect. Margiela fans have embraced more peculiar ideas before, and it's entirely possible that there are still some out there who could get into the idea of a well-cut gray wool jacket with the same stiff arms and planar back, along with pants whose hems seemed glued to the heels of scooped-out platform pumps.
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