Fendi
MILAN, September 23, 2010
Karl Lagerfeld
Karl Lagerfeld has never been one for romance or nostalgia. Color and geometry were his two pillars for the Fendi collection shown in Milan today. Still, many of the clothes had the airy volume of outfits for an ideal summer holiday, an impression compounded by the pressed-flower souvenirs incorporated as a subtle woven detail. And further underscoring that notion was the singed backdrop; the effect extended to the first few outfits, which looked like they'd been kissed by fire. The heat of the sun? The heat of desire? Either way, it was clearly the hottest holiday Fendi's ever had, hotter even than the summer Lagerfeld just enjoyed at his house in Saint-Tropez, where the mercury hit 100-plus for weeks on end.
At the same time, there was such an easy informality in the smocks, drawstring tunics, and paper-bag-waisted skirts that the Fendi woman could have been taking a stroll through a breezy wildflower meadow. When Iris Strubegger appeared on the catwalk three-quarters of the way through the show in a tailored blue suit with squared shoulders and a pannier-ed waist, it was almost a shock: a glimpse of Fendi then versus the Fendi now we were seeing all around.
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