2011 S/S Manish Arora

Manish Arora

PARIS, September 30, 2010

Manish Arora used the term "futuristic baroque" to describe his Spring collection. But considering the over-the-top, Ladies Who Gaga clothes shown today, perhaps the slightly riper era of rococo would be more appropriate. It was a time when artists reallylet their freak flags fly, as the Mumbai-born Arora is often known to do.

As for the futuristic part, Arora provided a base of candy-bright colors in latex leggings and streamlined color-blocked clothes for his oversized appliqués, and big shiny flourishes of gold horns that wrapped around legs and shoulders. The show's finale of sequined dresses and suits with postcard motifs was relatively serene. Perhaps it was Arora's way of saying he wishes you were here on this strange trip with him—it certainly looks like a fun journey.

2011 S/S Balmain

Balmain

PARIS, September 30, 2010

Christophe Decarnin

The sunny mood of the Milan collections? It was au revoir to all that on day two of Paris fashion week. A few hours after Balenciaga's teddy-boy girls strode out this morning, Christophe Decarnin was putting twenty-first-century proto-punks on his Balmain runway. They wore biker jackets studded and safety pinned to the hilt; tight, bleached jeans or shredded cut-offs; and holey T-shirts to match their torn fishnet stockings. "It's a look I've always liked," the designer said backstage. "I keep pictures of it all over my office."

With his brocade pantsuits and gold leather mullet gowns, Decarnin went glam baroque last season. This collection felt more in keeping with his previous Spring show: plenty couture (someone had to attach those safety pins to that white leather bustier one by one, presumably), but with a seriously offhand result. The message on the soundtrack—first, Frank Sinatra crooning, then Sid Vicious croaking "My Way"—would seem to indicate that this is what Decarnin prefers doing. That single-mindedness always gives his clothes energy to burn, but the question will be: Is Balmainia still so strong that women will shell out the serious bucks that a crystal- and metal-studded jacket is going to cost, when the look is so DIY? (After all, she could, as one editor sharply put it, pick apart a Perfecto, re-stitch it, and save herself $25,000.) We'll have to wait and see.